Saturday 3 July 2010

July 3, 2010

Common Loon - though I don't think they look or sound very common

Manned Canadian Lighthouse - the last one before entering into US waters



The rocks and trees come right down to the water - and the mirror reflections are beautiful.


Kind of look like totem poles when you turn them on their sides.


One of our favorite anchorages

The black blob is our bear.






Only a couple of black bears

We spent several days in some of the most beautiful anchorages we have ever been in. The entrances were usually narrow and shallow, rock walls with trees growing right down to the waters edge, and then the inlet would open up to a calm little bay with a grassy meadow at one end and usually a stream or two and a water fall emptying into the bay through the meadow. This was prime bear watching territory. Every time we entered one of these inlets, a pair of looms would greet us with their beautiful, haunting calls, and then disappear for the entire time we stayed. But not the ravens - they would chatter at us the entire time. You get the feeling they are trying to tell you something - or else they are chatting to each other about what silly creatures we are. I wonder what it means when one lands on your boat?

However, the Kermode or “spirit bears” remained elusive and didn’t show their faces - at least not when we were looking. We did see a couple of black bears - or maybe the same one twice - but no cream coloured grizzlies. You can imagine how miffed I was when we got to Prince Rupert and several of the local fishermen mentioned that all we needed to do was go up to the local dump to see several of these rare grizzlies - or there is a stuffed one at the airport. Somehow watching a bear rummage in our garbage or viewing a stuffed one is not the same thing!

Dolphins

One of the coolest things when we are on the water is the arrival of several Pacific White Sided Dolphins that arrive suddenly by the side of the boat and then race ahead play in the bow of the boat. Often you will “feel” their presence before you see them. It is the weirdest thing. John and I will run to the bow of the boat to watch these playful creatures. Seems like they know we are watching and will stay longer if we are there. It is truly amazing to watch as they surf on our bow wake, cross over and under each other, disappear under the boat and then shoot out of the water on the other side of the boat. It is always special when they pay a visit - no matter how calm or rough the water.

Alaska

We have arrived in Alaska, specifically Ketchikan. We crossed Dixon Entrance which is open to the Pacific pretty easily but then encountered very confused seas and rising winds as we entered the strait that would take us the 30 miles up to Ketchikan. So we ducked into the nearest and only anchorage as you enter the US to wait until the next day. Four years ago we ended up in this same anchorage, Foggy Bay, with about 6 other boats all waiting to go to Ketchikan. This year we were on our own. We seem to be one of a very few small pleasure boats making this trip this year. We often we are alone in anchorages which is nice, we have always enjoyed meeting up like people on these adventures. But the cruise ships are still out in force. When we arrived in Ketchikan, we had to dodge 6 cruise ships, two of which were leaving while another 2 where arriving to take their place - all happening as we were trying to dock in 15 knot winds.

We are staying here for a few days to regroup and restock the boat and then will be on our way to Juneau via some very interesting scenery - including a glacier or two and hopefully lots of bears and whales.

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